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While Aryn Baker, my colleague, was diving deep into people’s dating lives with words, I couldn’t even take out my camera without provoking immediate recoils and sneers. I had worked in Saudi pretty extensively in 2004, photographing the royal family, successful women in the Kingdom, and a story on Jehadists who turned liberal after spending time in prison, and had great luck on all occasions.

But for this story, every door was closed—until we went to Jeddah.

“Earlier, even Facebook was taboo,” wrote a 20-year-old Jeddah resident.

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